DIY Hyaluronic Acid Serum Recipe

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 DIY Hyaluronic Acid Serum is so easy to make and its ability to help your skin maintain moisture is unmatched.

Hyaluronic acid is all of the rave in anti-aging skincare.  Unfortunately as we get older, our skin loses hyaluronic acid. 

By helping skin stay hydrated, hyaluronic acid can temporarily plump and smooth the skin, which may make fine lines look less noticeable.

What is Hyaluronic Acid?

Contrary to the second part of its name, hyaluronic acid is not an actual “acid” per se. It will not burn your skin. Do not let the name scare you away because hyaluronic acid can be your skin’s best friend.

Hyaluronic acid is a natural glycosaminoglycan (polysaccharides that are an important component of connective tissues) that is naturally occurring in our bodies, with half of it being found in our skin.

It plays an integral role in maintaining and regulating moisture within our tissues. As we age the amount of hyaluronic acid production gradually slows down resulting in fine lines and wrinkles. Hyaluronic acid is a humectant, which means it helps attract and hold onto moisture. When used in skincare, it can help skin feel more hydrated and give it a temporarily smoother, plumper appearance. (source)

Can Hyaluronic Acid be Used as a Serum?

Hyaluronic acid, on its own cannot be used as a serum but all you need are a few ingredients to make your own DIY Hyaluronic Acid Serum.

Can I Use Hyaluronic Acid Every Day?

Hyaluronic acid serum is applied topically to damp skin before you apply your moisturizer. It can also be used in conjunction with other face creams such as sunscreen or your daily moisturizer.

I like to apply hyaluronic acid serum while my skin is still slightly damp, then follow with moisturizer. This gives the humectant some available moisture and the moisturizer helps reduce water loss from the skin afterward.

If you have sensitive or reactive skin, patch test a small amount first before using the serum all over your face.

Should You Use Hyaluronic Acid Morning or Night?

Used regularly as part of your skincare regimen, hyaluronic acid will help plump up your skin decreasing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It is safe to use daily, but for people with the most sensitive skin, using in the morning and night may be a bit too much.

Hyaluronic acid basically acts like a sponge on your skin by attracting and retaining moisture due to its water-attracting properties. (source)

Should You Use Hyaluronic Acid & Vitamin C Serum Together?

These 2 powerhouse ingredients absolutely can be used together. For even better anti-aging results, you can whip up this DIY Vitamin C Serum Recipe and use it alongside your Hyaluronic Acid Serum. 

How to Make DIY Hyaluronic Acid Serum?

It is no surprise that hyaluronic acid is a popular ingredient in the beauty industry with many beauty brands adding hyaluronic acid into their creams and serums.

The downside is that some brands only add a small amount of hyaluronic acid into their serums and some even mix it with toxic chemicals.

You can make your very own diy hyaluronic acid serum from home with the same great benefits of the more expensive brands.

To make your own hyaluronic acid serum, you will need to purchase some high quality Hyaluronic Acid Powder.

High or Lower Molecular Weight Hyaluronic Acid?

You'll find hyaluronic acid powders sold in different molecular-weight ranges. There isn't one universal cutoff for what counts as ‘low’ or ‘high,’ so those labels can vary from one supplier to another.

The two options I use for this recipe are approximately 800,000–1,000,000 Da and 1,000,000–1,500,000 Da. The first is the smaller of the two and can give the serum a somewhat lighter feel, while the larger molecular-weight option tends to create more of a hydrating film on the surface of the skin.

I wouldn't choose between these based on claims that one will penetrate deeply into your skin. For this DIY serum, both are primarily useful as humectants that help hydrate the skin and improve how it feels and looks.

Want to learn more about choosing ingredients for your own skincare formulas? Beauty Base is my ingredient reference library where you can compare ingredients, learn what they do, and find the information you need to formulate with more confidence.

DIY Hyaluronic Acid Serum Ingredients

You will need a few ingredients to make your own serum including:

Hydrosol or Floral Water - A few good options would be Lavender or Rose Hydrosol.

Distilled Water - If you don't have floral water, you can just add more distilled water.

Vegetable Glycerin - Vegetable glycerin is a humectant that helps draw water to the skin. We will be using our glycerin to help disperse the hyaluronic acid into our serum as well.

Xanthan Gum - Xanthan gum is a natural gum polysaccharide that is used as a thickener.

Hyaluronic Acid - I have chosen a high molecular weight hyaluronic acid for this recipe, but as we covered before, you can include both high and lower molecular weight options in your recipe. The hyaluronic acid powder used in this recipe may be listed by its INCI name, Sodium Hyaluronate, depending on the supplier.

Dermosoft Eco 1388 - Because this is water based, we will be adding a preservative.

Shelf life: Because this is a water-based serum, don't skip the preservative. This recipe uses Dermosoft 1388 Eco and is adjusted to approximately pH 5 to support preservative performance. Since homemade formulas aren't typically challenge tested, I don't give this serum a guaranteed shelf life. Make it with clean, sanitized equipment, keep it in a clean pump bottle, and discard it if you notice changes in the smell, color, texture, or appearance.

In the past I've recommended Geogard ECT as a broad spectrum preservative for water based products because it claims to be water soluble. But unfortunately the Benzyl Alcohol isn't completely water soluble which can lead to skin sensitization issues, which we don't want.

This formula calls for 1 gram of Dermosoft 1388 Eco.

I recommend purchasing a jewelry scale to accurately add preservatives to your formulations.

I have included a conversion as well, if you don't have a jewelry scale. You can add 3/16 teaspoon of the preservative Dermosoft 1388 Eco.

If you don't have measuring spoons this small, you can find them on Amazon here. Let's get to the recipe!

Hyaluronic Acid Serum Troubleshooting

Don't worry if your serum looks a little lumpy or uneven at first. Hyaluronic acid can take several hours to fully hydrate, so give it some time before deciding the texture isn't right.

White lumps or clumps: Hyaluronic acid and xanthan gum can take time to hydrate. Give the serum several hours and stir again. Thoroughly disperse the powders in glycerin before incorporating the mixture into the water phase, following the recipe’s existing method.

Thick or gel-like texture: A thick texture is not automatically a failure. Give the powders time to hydrate before judging the finished consistency.

Serum seems too thin: Viscosity may develop over time. Allow several hours for hydration and stir again before deciding the texture is too thin.

Sticky or tacky feel: Try using less serum and follow with moisturizer. Do not judge the formula by expecting tackiness to disappear within a fixed number of minutes.

When to discard: Discard the serum if you notice unexpected changes in odor, color, texture or appearance, or visible contamination.

DIY Hyaluronic Acid Serum FAQs

How much hyaluronic acid powder should I use in a DIY serum?

Hyaluronic acid is effective at fairly low concentrations, and more isn't necessarily better. Too much can make a serum overly thick or sticky. This recipe uses an amount that gives you the hydrating benefits of HA while still creating a serum that's easy to use.

Does homemade hyaluronic acid serum need a preservative?

Yes. If your serum contains water or hydrosol, it needs an appropriate preservative. This recipe uses Dermosoft 1388 Eco and is adjusted to approximately pH 5 to support preservative performance.

Can I make hyaluronic acid serum with just water?

Hyaluronic acid can be hydrated in water, but once you make a water-based skincare product, microbial contamination becomes a concern. For a serum you plan to store and use repeatedly, I recommend following a properly formulated recipe that includes a preservative rather than simply mixing HA powder with water.

Why is my homemade hyaluronic acid serum sticky?

Some tackiness is normal with hyaluronic acid serums. Try using a smaller amount of serum and follow with your moisturizer. The molecular weight of the HA and the amount used can also affect how the finished serum feels.

Should I apply hyaluronic acid serum to damp skin?

You can apply hyaluronic acid to slightly damp skin, and that's how I like to use it. I follow it with moisturizer to help reduce water loss and keep my skin feeling hydrated.

Can hyaluronic acid dry out your skin?

Hyaluronic acid is a humectant used to help hydrate skin, but how a finished product feels can depend on the entire formula, your skin and your environment. If your skin feels dry or tight after using an HA serum, try applying it to slightly damp skin and following with a moisturizer.

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